I am a NH trainer. I use a combination of methods, an array of things that work for the individual horse I am working on. The comment I want to make is directed at the backing discussions. When training a horse to do something, anything, he has to fgure out what you are asking. He will choose the wrong or incorrect response sometimes often, before finding the correct answer. When the correct response happens, the trainer rewards by releasing pressure. In this case the jiggling of the rope stops. Some learn it faster than others. I teach this to EVREY horse I ride or train. It is an invaluable tool. Sometimes you are just not close enough to pull the rope toward his chest to ask for a back up. Using this technique I can ask from anywhere. My horses are so light with it it just takes a little wiggle of the rope and back they go. So the only real crazy waving involved is usually the first time teaching them.
Do I think the big name trainers have gotten out of hand? Yes. I also they they brought to light a lot about horsemnanship that main stream folks were not aware of. Things they should have been aweare of, but weren't.
My 17.3h sensitive draft cross and I have a great relationship. We preactically read each others minds. One day going to a trail he spooked. I could feel the m oment that he thought, OMG I'm going to die and Loretta is asking me to move forward. Someone has to save my life and if it's not going to be her it's going to be me. Really, I felt him close me out. Know what I did? I got down. And we walked back and forth in front of the scary yellow do not enter tape for the next hour. He was side passing at a trot to try and not get close but keep his eye on it, right next to the road. But if he had freaked and pulled away, I'd be alive even if he got hit by a car. I've had many folks tell me I did the wrong thing. I will never be convicned of that. For that horse under tose circumstances, I did the right thing.
So I applaud those who realize not every way works with every horse. Just like our children. Each have unique qualities that I beleive should be taken into consideration while training.
Clear Communication/Visible Results
Monday, September 13, 2010
Monday, August 16, 2010
Friday, August 6, 2010
Top 10 Purchasing Guidelines
Loretta’s top 10 Questions to ask and things to do, notice and look for when reviewing a horse for purchase.
- 1. Are his eyes clear? His coat shiny?
- 2. Are there rings on his feet? Cracks? (not good)
- 3. Does he seem interested and friendly?
- 4. Is he jumpy?
- 5. Watch how the owner handles him. i.e. is there a chain over his nose?
- 6. Does he willingly comply?
- 7. Touch him all over. Don’t start at his head, some horses just do not like that. The shoulder or neck is a good place to start. Run your hands on his whole body. Back, legs, hind end. Watch for his reactions. Does he twitch or move around?
- 8. Ask about ground work and manners. Watch how he reacts and moves when being led, etc…
- 9. Does he stop when she stops walking or does she have to make him stop moving? Where does she hold the lead while handling him?
- 10. Try to lift his tail right at the top of the dock. Watch his reaction. It is a sign of trust if they willingly allow you to pick up the tail.
Wednesday, June 9, 2010
Your position-his response
Monday, May 31, 2010
Why do riders fall?
WHY DO RIDERS FALL?
by Jan Dawson
What causes a rider to make an unscheduled departure from the back of a horse?. The focus is on those times when rider loses her or his seat with little or no help from the horse, not situations involving bee stung horses or times when equipment has failed or when the horse has fallen also.
What has to happen for the rider to be able to fall off? What can the rider do to insure that he/she does not fall off?
The short answer is, "Just keep one leg one each side, little lady, and you'll do all right." Hey, if it was good enough for western movies it should be good enough for us. Right. In this case that cowboy was right and it is not a joke! Beginners and novices fall off more than other people. And what do you see in the typical beginner position? What is the first thing that you notice? Most likely it is the out-of-position leg. "Oh, that's okay; we are working on that and it will come with time.", says the instructor.
It may come with time but to leave the issue up to experience is to admit that the beginner or novice is going to be left to his own devices to figure out, not just balance, but how to stay on the horse. There may be a better way.
A different perception may be to view the out-of-position leg as the beginning of a fall. That fall may not happen that day or that week or that month, but as long as the leg is out of position the rider is at risk because the anchor for the upper body is not in place. All you have to add is a higher center or gravity (weight on the stirrup rather that the seat or the heel) and an unexpected movement. Sometimes you don't have to add anything. Consider the beginner or novice in early trot or canter work, or even jumping or trail riding. Whether by choice or otherwise the horse goes forward at the trot or canter and the rider is in the fetal position, legs too far back and leaning forward over hands held at the waist. Not only can this rider fall, it can be a one point landing on the head.
Before the unfortunate rider falls something else usually has happened: The rider's center of gravity has become too high. The rider's center of gravity should be at all times as close as possible to that of the horse. If the weight is solidly in the seat or solidly down in the heels it is not so easy to dislodge the rider. Being able to maintain the center of gravity as low as possible goes a long way in maintaining the position of the leg. The reverse is also true: A correct position of the leg aids the rider in maintaining a low center of gravity.
Stiffness in the body may also contribute to a fall. Consider the classic example of the broomstick on the diving board verses the piece of boiled spaghetti or a pile of Jell-O. If the rider is reasonably in balance with the horse stiffness in the body is required for a rider to be unloaded under normal as opposed to rodeo or rodeo-like circumstances.
In practice this means that instructors need to concentrate on helping the rider achieve a secure and correct leg position almost before they do anything else. If the leg moves or becomes unstable when the skill level increases they should go back to where the leg was stable and try again. It helps to have a pocket full of exercises designed to position the leg then teach the upper body to move around over a stationary leg, rather than the other way around which is exactly the way most beginners and many others ride.
Once the upper body has learned to move around over the correct leg, the instructor must show the student how to relax or unlock the lower back to avoid the stiffness that can contribute to a higher center of gravity. Most children will not need help to do this. They will do it instinctively. Many adults will not, some, even after years of experience. To tell if the lower back is unlocked and supple just watch the riders hips. If the hips sway front to back, the rider's lower back is locked. If the hips move laterally with the left and right sides dropping alternately the lower back is unlocked. This should also help the horse to move better as the horse never uses both hind legs at the same times, consequently his back never moves both sides at once.
Riders should also be cautioned against pinching with their knees as this also causes the center of gravity to rise. When this is pointed out most riders will feel it as squeezing themselves out of the saddle.
It is not possible to put too much emphasis of teaching and maintaining a correct leg position. Western or English, it doesn't matter. The leg must be still and securely placed directly below the mass of the riders weight if the rider expects to remain aboard ;the horse indefinitely, through good times and bed. If the leg leaves it's "home" position it is the beginning of a fall; maybe not today, this week or this month, but it will come. "That's right, little lady," just keep one leg on each side of this critter and you'll do just fine.
For suggestions on how to teach this secure leg position please see the AAHS Riding Instructors Handbook available now through the United States Pony Club or at your booksellers next summer.
Sunday, May 30, 2010
The Nature of the horse
by
Jan Dawson
President
American Association for Horsemanship Safety
All too often at riding schools and trail ride establishments, the first lesson or pre-ride instruction is under-utilized or completely wasted from a safety perspective.
The first lesson, or pre-ride instruction, even with advanced students or riders, is the best opportunity to frame all the instruction that follows in terms of safety in a way even the most novice rider will remember and in a way even the advanced rider may not have considered. We all may say "I knew that" but we must know it so well that our unconscious survival instinct will push it to the surface when needed.
Unfortunately, a set of quickly listed rules, oral or written, is soon forgotten if the rules have no logical framework. Riders will remember them when they have heard them over and over but is that enough? How about these words following an accident, "I knew better. I have heard that all my life but just didn't think." The information had never turned into habitual practice.
The following initial ground lesson is excerpted from the AAHS Instructor's Handbook of Horsemanship Safety.
1. The very things about the horse that cause us so much trouble are the very characteristics that have kept the horse in existence for thousands of years. His instincts protected his ancestors and kept them from being eaten, so they could live long enough to reproduce offspring, including the horse your student is about to mount.
2. No matter how good the trainer or rider is, we cannot teach the horse not to be a horse. The instincts are imbedded genetically and are always there.
3. When the horse is under mental or physical pressure, his instincts take over and the training goes out the window.
4. What are those instincts? They are characteristics that have kept the horse from being eaten by predators. The short answer is to fight or flee, but that is too simplistic.
5. Man - the supreme predator - must separate himself somehow from the lions, tigers and bears when dealing with horses.
6. Predators must bring a horse down quickly if they are to have dinner. They can go to the neck and slice the jugular vein and carotid artery; they can cut the hamstring above the hock; they can cut the band on top of the neck that holds the neck up; and, if it's a group of predators, one can grab the nose and the rest can bring the horse down.
7. So, we don't approach a horse from behind, or the neck or the nose (head). The wolf that tried to bring a horse down by biting his shoulder would be squashed. We approach the shoulder, which tells the horse we mean no harm.
8. Predators must sneak up on a horse to be successful, so we must announce our arrival. We speak to the horse and wait until he acknowledges us by looking at us or turning his ears to us. Then we walk normally to his shoulder and stroke him.
9. The horse's keen sense of hearing has protected him for thousands of years. His eyes on the side of his head allow him to see almost all the way around himself. He cannot see directly behind or immediately in front of himself, which is why horses are such poor typists. So we want to stay where he can see us. We whistle when coming through a door or around a corner in the barn area to announce to all horses that we are approaching.
10. All animals with skulls protecting their brains are protective of their heads. We don't like to have someone come up and put their hands on our faces without permission, and neither does a horse. How often do we see someone reach out and touch a horse first on the face? Not a good idea.
11. Horses have stayed alive for many generations by reacting quickly to surprises - run or get away first to a safe distance, then turn and look. Don't look first or you might not have time to run. Suppose old Dobbin falls asleep during grooming, you step away to visit, and then go back to grooming. That touch to a dozing horse may trigger the instinct. Keep the horse awake. If you step away, talk to him and announce your presence before touching him again.
12. The horse has his own space. It is a circle about 12 to 15 feet around him. This is the area he can either defend or still have time to get away if here is an opening. Consider the wise old ranch horse in the pasture: you get to within 15 feet of him with your halter, he takes a step, and you take a step. He knows you aren't going to catch him if he can maintain his distance from you. He will not allow a predator within that space. So, don't act like a predator.
13. Not acting like a predator is easy. Just make sure the horse knows who you are, where you are and what you are going to do. To the horse, this means you approach him talking to him, you stay where he can see you, and you make it clear that you aren't going to hurt or eat him by making no sudden moves. Example: we run a hand down the leg of the hoof we wish to clean, we don't just grab the foot.
14. Caution must be exercised in the barn or saddling area. In most barns, the aisle is not wide enough to allow students to pass the horses without entering their space - so we approach each horse individually at the shoulder after they have acknowledged us with a look or an ear; then we keep a hand on them as we go by.
15. It is important to know where not to be when the instincts kick in. If we go under the lead rope, the horse can smash a face while stomping a fly. Or worse, if he spooks forward, we will be stomped. If he is tied to a solid wall, we may be squashed. When leading, whether you turn the horse toward you or away, the main thing (and this is really important with small children) is to stay out from in front of the horse's front feet.
16. When you are behind the horse, closer is better. When going behind a horse, if you are up close and he hicks, you won't get the full force - farther back you may get kicked with the power that can move the horse forward at 30 miles per hour. So keep your hand on the horse, let your arm pass to the other side before your body does. We like to have our shoulder touching the tail as we go by. If he is going to kick, he will probably do it when only your arm is touching his rump; he won't wait for your body. The fact that you have touched him all the way from his shoulder to his rump is good insurance that he probably won't kick. He knows who you are, certainly where you are, and you don't seem to have plans to eat him.
17. If students understand that it is quite a miracle that a horse lets the supreme predator ride on his back, they will have more respect for the horse. Horses can identify predators - they know wolves are dangerous and cows are not even if they have not had experience with either. Our vegetarian friends say this is due to meat odor on the body. Meat eaters smell different. The equine ancestors who reacted quickly to the smell of a meat eater lived longer and it is their descendants we ride today.
Monday, May 17, 2010
Teach Your Horse to Respect Your Personal Space
Teach Your Horse to Respect Your Personal Space
Loretta
Loretta
the natural horseman
clear communication/visible results
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Backing
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Backing helps
When things get squirrelly on my computer, I automatically reboot. It may not fix every problem, but it fixes most of them, and that saves me time and frustration. Backing my horse is similar to rebooting my computer. It gets us unstuck and reloaded for a fresh start.Backing is the closest thing to a “silver bullet” that exists in horse training. It helps from the ground and it helps from the saddle. It helps in dealing with problems and in preventing them in the first place.
Why, you may ask? Best as I can figure, backing puts a horse in a unique frame of mind. It’s not as natural for him as going forward so he must think about placement of his feet. It’s a submissive act that reminds him of his standing. Most important, it puts him out of position to take flight. That makes him feel vulnerable. Whatever was on his mind before you asked him to back up is suddenly not so important.
When you get a horse to back on your command, you are demonstrating that you know what matters in his world and that you just might be qualified to be leader for the day.
Teaching a horse to back is surprisingly easy if you don’t get greedy. When you first request it, you must be satisfied with him just shifting his weight back and instantly reward him with relief of pressure, a reassuring stroke, and a kind word. Then, give him a moment to think about it and ask again. This time you will expect him to do more, but only a little more, perhaps shifting his weight and lifting one foot. Again, relief, reward and rest. In this fashion, where clear, consistent cueing is coupled with instant positive consequences, a horse learns incrementally to back from the ground or the saddle.
Helpful hint: Always back any horse a few steps before you mount him and, at the first sign of trouble, stop him and put him in reverse. Request, relief, reward, rest. Then it’s on to the business of the day.
Rick
Backing
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Backing helps
When things get squirrelly on my computer, I automatically reboot. It may not fix every problem, but it fixes most of them, and that saves me time and frustration. Backing my horse is similar to rebooting my computer. It gets us unstuck and reloaded for a fresh start.Backing is the closest thing to a “silver bullet” that exists in horse training. It helps from the ground and it helps from the saddle. It helps in dealing with problems and in preventing them in the first place.
Why, you may ask? Best as I can figure, backing puts a horse in a unique frame of mind. It’s not as natural for him as going forward so he must think about placement of his feet. It’s a submissive act that reminds him of his standing. Most important, it puts him out of position to take flight. That makes him feel vulnerable. Whatever was on his mind before you asked him to back up is suddenly not so important.
When you get a horse to back on your command, you are demonstrating that you know what matters in his world and that you just might be qualified to be leader for the day.
Teaching a horse to back is surprisingly easy if you don’t get greedy. When you first request it, you must be satisfied with him just shifting his weight back and instantly reward him with relief of pressure, a reassuring stroke, and a kind word. Then, give him a moment to think about it and ask again. This time you will expect him to do more, but only a little more, perhaps shifting his weight and lifting one foot. Again, relief, reward and rest. In this fashion, where clear, consistent cueing is coupled with instant positive consequences, a horse learns incrementally to back from the ground or the saddle.
Helpful hint: Always back any horse a few steps before you mount him and, at the first sign of trouble, stop him and put him in reverse. Request, relief, reward, rest. Then it’s on to the business of the day.
Rick
Thursday, May 6, 2010
May 2010 Newsletter
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Loretta the natural horseman clear communication/visible results
May 2010 Newsletter
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Loretta the natural horseman clear communication/visible results
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